Tiny fish boosting fortunes of women, their children’s health

Along the sun-drenched coastline of the Indian Ocean in the quiet, fishing village of Kibuyuni, Kwale, Elizabeth Luvuno rises before dawn, her routine guided by the flow of the tides.

A mother of two and a seasoned dagaa trader, she has spent the past five years building her livelihood around these tiny, nutrient-rich fish.

“Dagaa is more than just a fish; it is a lifeline for many families in this village, both as a source of food and income,” she says.

For thousands of households in Kibuyuni, dagaa is not just a staple; it is a shield against poverty and malnutrition, sustaining both livelihoods and nutrition.

At day break, boats laden with the night’s catch drift toward the shore, decks overflowing with the silvery pelagic small fish, sardines, and anchovies.

Luvuno steps across the damp sand, her kanga tightly wrapped around her waist. Her sharp eyes scan the boats as she sorts the shimmering fish, filling her woven basket with dagaa.

“This is my daily routine,” she murmurs. “I have to be at the shore by 6am to get the freshest dagaa. From here, I’ll soak them in salty water and boil them for a few minutes.”

Within moments, the shoreline bursts into motion. Porters wade into the shallows, hoisting heavy baskets of fish onto their shoulders and moving swiftly toward the processing site.

Nearby, fires flicker to life, sending thick plumes of smoke curling into the sky as women prepare steaming troughs for boiling.

Luvuno joins them, rolling up her sleeves, her hands seasoned by years of labour. “I started with a capital of Sh5,000, and now my business is worth Sh50,000,” she says with smile. “I’ve expanded and employed 11 more women.”

Luvuno fills a large aluminium basin with freshly caught dagaa, submerging them in boiling water before carefully spreading the glistening fish to begin the drying process. “I can now process close to 150 kilograms a day, which gives me an average profit of Sh15,000 after sales,” she said.

Japheth Munyoki, a business consultant, highlights the economic opportunities in the dagaa value chain. “From fishermen to processors, traders, and transporters, dagaa employs thousands of people. The market is expanding to regional countries like Uganda and Rwanda.”

Though small in size, dagaa holds immense value. They are the most affordable and nutritionally rich food available to coastal communities.

“These species are packed with essential nutrients, including high-quality protein, omega-3 fatty acids, and vital micronutrients like calcium, iron, and zinc,” says Dr Johnstone Omukoto, a senior researcher at the Kenya Marine and Fisheries Research Institute.

“They play a crucial role in combating malnutrition, particularly among children as well as pregnant and lactating women.”

According to Robert Kemboi, a nutritionist, dagaa provides affordable and accessible nutrition to low-income households in remote villages of the six counties at the Coast. 

In Kibuyuni, the dagaa fishery is a crucial lifeline for over 1,000 households, driving a thriving economy. 

“The high protein content supports child growth and development, while the micronutrients help combat anaemia and stunting,” he says.

Back to Luvuno, the drying of her 100 kilograms allows the fish to be stored and consumed for weeks.

She also adds coconut milk to the fish to make it more sumptuous for her kids. “Dagaa is a big part of my diet,” she says, stirring the coconut milk into the dish, adding, “It’s affordable and accessible for most families.”

For lunch, Luvuno serves the boiled dagaa mixed with rich coconut milk, a recipe passed down through generations. Dagaa is also ground into flour and mixed with grains to make porridge for children.

“Many people still see dagaa as food for the poor, but I tell them, even the rich eat it; they just call it something else,” Luvuno says, shaking her head.

According to the Kenya Fisheries Service Fishery Status Report for 2022, demersal species dominated the artisanal marine fisheries catch, accounting for 45 per cent or 16,129 metric tons of the total artisanal landings.

Pelagic species contributed 35 per cent (12,489mt), while crustaceans made up 6 per cent (2,193mt) of the total catch. During the reporting period, Kwale led with the highest quantity of marine artisanal landings, totalling 14,794mt, which represents 42 per cent of the overall landings.

The question arises: can the fisheries sector and dagaa, in particular, address nutrition in families below the food poverty line?

Nutritionists highlights the significance of sardines and anchovies. “Omega-3s found in these fish may promote brain health and help reduce the risk of conditions like depression, ADHD, and even Parkinson’s disease,” says Kemboi.

Additionally, omega-3s support heart health by lowering triglycerides and increasing HDL (good) cholesterol levels, which help prevent blood clots and reduce inflammation.

Dr Omukoto underscores the sustainability of sardines and anchovies when managed correctly.

“These species are fast-growing and reproduce quickly, which means they are less vulnerable to overfishing compared to other fish species. However, overfishing remains a risk if not managed properly,” he says.

Luvuno and her fellow women still face challenges. “Our processing of dagaa is not up to standard, from boiling to sun drying, and this has affects the quality and price,” she says.

Omukoto says boiling leads to the leaching of nutrients.

But Dr Patrick Kimani, director of Coastal and Marine Resource Development, has a solution. “We are setting up a new processing plant that will optimise boiling to reduce nutrient loss. This plant will also include the installation of energy-saving jikos and drying racks to improve the hygiene conditions during dagaa drying. Additionally, a new smoking kiln will allow for the smoking of dagaa, providing an entirely new product that adds value to the fish,” he says.